If you share your home with a Lab, a heeler, or a pair of farm collies, you already know the problem: the crate ends up in the middle of the living room, the food bin sits by the back door, and the water bowl gets kicked across the kitchen floor every morning. Across Logan, Hyde Park, Smithfield, and the rest of Cache Valley, more homeowners are asking us the same question: can you build the kennel right into the cabinets? The answer is yes, and when it is done well, it is one of the most useful pieces of cabinetry in the house.
At Rivermill Cabinetry & Woodworks, we have been building custom cabinets from our shop at 50 S Main Street in Hyde Park for more than 20 years. Here is how we approach built-in dog kennels and feeding stations, and what to think through before you commit to a design.
Can you build a dog kennel into kitchen cabinets?
Absolutely. A built-in kennel is simply a cabinet opening sized for a crate, with a face frame or door that matches the rest of your cabinetry. The most common locations are under a kitchen island, at the end of a run of base cabinets, in a mudroom bench, or in a laundry room. From the outside, it looks like any other door or drawer front. On the inside, it is a ventilated, washable, chew-resistant room for your dog.
Homeowners in North Logan and Providence often tuck the kennel into the end of the island so the dog can see the family during dinner. In Nibley and Hyrum, where many homes are newer builds with large mudrooms, we more often see the kennel built into a boot bench near the garage entry.
How big should a built-in dog kennel be?
This is where most do-it-yourself and big-box solutions fail. A kennel that fits a puppy will not fit the adult dog, and a cabinet is not easy to modify later. We measure the dog, not the crate catalog, and we plan for the full-grown size.
- Measure nose to tail base. Add 4 inches to get the interior depth. A typical Labrador needs roughly 36 inches of depth and 24 inches of width.
- Measure standing height. Measure from the floor to the top of the head or ears, whichever is higher, then add 4 to 6 inches so the dog can stand and turn around comfortably.
- Plan for interior clearance. Door hinges, a face frame, and a floor panel all take up space. A 24-inch-wide cabinet opening can leave you with an interior closer to 21 inches, so we size the opening from the interior inward.
- Think about the next dog. If you might get a larger breed down the road, build one size up. A kennel that is slightly large is far better than one that is too small.
What are the best doors for a dog kennel cabinet?
Ventilation and visibility matter, and so does durability. The three door styles we build most often are:
- Slatted wood doors. Vertical hardwood slats with 1 to 1.5 inch gaps give great airflow and match shaker or farmhouse kitchens.
- Metal grille inserts. A powder-coated or brushed steel grille set into a wood frame is nearly chew-proof and easy to wipe down. This is a great option for dogs that paw at the door.
- Solid doors with a vented panel. If you want the kennel to disappear into the cabinetry, we use a solid door with a discreet vent at the top and bottom. It also helps with noise and keeps a sleeping dog out of the light.
We always use full-overlay hinges rated for heavy use or a sliding barn-style door, so nothing sticks out into the walkway when the dog is coming and going. Magnetic catches alone are not enough for a dog that likes to push. We recommend a positive latch.
What materials hold up to dog claws, water, and chewing?
A dog area takes more abuse than any other part of your kitchen. We choose materials with that in mind:
- Hard maple or white oak for the frame. Both are dense hardwoods that resist dents. Softer species like pine will scratch quickly.
- Three-quarter-inch plywood floor. Plywood is more stable than particleboard if the floor ever gets wet. We seal the floor and add a removable washable tray or mat.
- Catalyzed or conversion varnish finish. These hardened finishes resist scratches, moisture, and cleaning products far better than a basic paint. Inside the kennel, we often leave a light, sealed finish that is easy to wipe.
- Rounded edges and no exposed corners. Chewers will find any sharp edge. We soften the interior edges and avoid trim they can grab.
Cache Valley adds a few local factors. Our winters are dry, so wood moves seasonally, and our hard water leaves mineral spots on stainless bowls and finishes. A properly sealed interior and a tight, well-built door help the kennel stay square through the seasons.
How do you build a dog feeding station into cabinets?
A feeding station is often paired with the kennel, or it can stand on its own as a small base cabinet. A well-designed one solves three daily annoyances: spilled water, scattered kibble, and a bulky food bag.
- Recessed bowl cutouts. We cut openings in a pull-out shelf or the cabinet top so stainless bowls drop in flush. Bowls stay put, and you can raise the height for large breeds to be comfortable.
- A pull-out food bin. A deep drawer or pull-out with a lidded bin holds a 35 to 40 pound bag of food right where you need it, so there is no carrying it from the garage.
- A moisture-friendly top. A solid-surface or sealed hardwood top under the bowls handles splashes. We also add a small lip or tray to keep water off the floor.
- Storage for leashes and treats. Small drawers and hooks keep leashes, waste bags, and brushes in one place near the door.
Where do farm dogs and working breeds fit in?
Cache Valley is farm country. If you are in Wellsville, Mendon, Richmond, or one of the communities south of Logan, your dog may come in from the barn or the field with mud and burrs on its coat. In these homes, we often recommend putting the kennel and feeding station in the mudroom, paired with a bench, hooks, and a washable floor.
Some families go a step further with a small dog wash station or a rinse area with a tile floor and a handheld sprayer. If you want to treat the dog area as part of a larger mudroom plan, our mudroom cabinet guides cover how to design for snow, boots, and big families.
What questions should you ask any cabinet maker about a built-in kennel?
A built-in kennel is a custom job, and not every shop has the experience. Whoever you hire, ask these questions:
- Do you measure the dog and the crate? A good maker will ask about breed, weight, and age, and will plan for adult size.
- How will the kennel be ventilated? Look for a specific answer: slats, grilles, or vents, not just a hole in the back.
- What is the floor made of, and can I remove it? You want a sealed, washable surface that can be taken out and cleaned.
- How does the door latch? Ask to see the hardware. Dogs are persistent.
- Can the kennel convert later? If your dog is gone someday, a good design can become a drawer stack, a bench, or extra pantry storage.
We are glad to answer all of these at our Hyde Park shop, and we will show you samples of finishes, grille options, and hardware so you can see and feel what will last.
Planning a kennel into your next kitchen or mudroom
The best time to add a dog kennel is during the initial design, before walls, plumbing, and electrical are set. A built-in under an island needs the right spacing for outlets and a fan if you want one. If you are remodeling an older home in Logan or Smithfield, we can often convert an unused corner or an awkward base cabinet into a kennel without moving a wall.
If you are picturing a kennel, a feeding station, or a full dog-friendly mudroom, we would love to help. Contact us or visit our showroom at 50 S Main Street in Hyde Park, and bring your dog’s measurements. We will sketch the layout with you and build something your whole family, including the four-legged members, will use every day.
